Trust the trained professionals at DryBasements.com to solve your waterproofing problem. With over 25 years of experience to our credit, we offer cost-effective solutions for basement waterproofing in London and surrounding areas of Southwestern Ontario. In fact, we offer a wide variety of solutions finished and unfinished basements including:
The foundation of your home needs to be routinely checked because even small cracks can cause big problems. When it comes to repairing a crack in a poured concrete foundation, it is not sufficient to simply fill the crack. The structural stability of the structure must be restored in order to avoid damage in the future.
In order to make your concrete basement wall solid as a rock, stronger than steel, and never to move again; the best solution is to have the professionals at DryBasements.com perform Crack Stitching.
Very few concrete crack repairs fail immediately. It is the long-term creep and fatigue of material injected in concrete cracks that can deteriorate due to movement. Particularly, the thermal movement as a foundation heats and cools. By stitching concrete crack repairs with carbon fibre staples, this movement is eliminated and the long-term performance of the repair is guaranteed.
No exterior excavation required
No additional internal drainage required
Repairs vertical, horizontal, and corner wall cracks
Repairs overhead cracks such as porch tops and garage floors
Most repairs completed in a few hours
Minimal dust and noise
If there are obstacles in the way, our estimator can arrange to have the area cleared. Every effort is made to avoid damage the surrounding area of the repair. Crack Stitching repairs are considered a permanent repair and as such come backed by our transferrable "Written Lifetime Warranty".
Depending on the age of your poured concrete foundation and the severity of the foundation or basement wall crack, we may recommend an Exterior Crack Repair as the best method of waterproofing. This treatment requires excavation down to the weeping tile so that we can also check the weepers. Of course this only tells us their condition at that location. If a problem with the weepers is found, a weeper flush may be required. In some cases, a video inspection is required for visual confirmation.
If the problem is confirmed to be plugged weepers, flushing is only a temporary fix. A permanent fix requires identifying how the tile became plugged and correcting it to prevent future blockages from occurring.
It’s rare for an Exterior Crack Repair to fail rapidly. Rather, the material injected into the crack will begin to weaken over time from the movement of the foundation. By cross-stitching concrete crack repairs with carbon fibre staples, this slow creep is eliminated and the long-term performance of the repair is guaranteed.
The area is first excavated, usually by hand, down to the weeping tile
Weeping tile inspection is performed
The cracked is identified
A Bentonite Mastic is applied
A flood boot is installed
An air-gap membrane is applied as an additional waterproofing shield and to relieve hydrostatic pressure
Drainage stone is added
Native soil backfill is replaced and compacted
If there are obstacles in the way, our estimator can arrange to have the area cleared. Every effort is made to avoid damage to more of the surrounding area than is necessary. Utility locates will handled by our office. An exterior crack repair is considered a permanent repair and as such is backed by our transferrable Written Lifetime Warranty.
An internal breakout, sometimes called an interior weeping tile, interior French drain, or interior drain system is an interior water control system. When designed and installed correctly, this is an ideal solution that can offer the homeowner a permanent solution to water infiltration through basement walls as well as relieving ground water pressure.
Excellent choice where exterior access is limited by driveways, decks, landscaping, etc.
Typically less expensive than exterior excavation with equal moisture control effectiveness
Waterproofing solution for all types of foundations including poured concrete, concrete block, stone, brick and fieldstone
The DryBasements.com internal breakout is a much more effective solution than drainage tile laid atop or at the edge of the basement floor
A 12-16 inch trench is cut at the base of the wall along the outside perimeter of the basement
The trench is lined with 3 inch perforated PVC pipe laid next to the footing
A 15-18 inch sump liner, approximately 30 inches deep, is installed
The drainage pipe is connected to the sump pit
A professional grade sump pump, with a full pumping capacity battery backup pump from NexPump or Basement
Guardian, is installed in the liner
A 1 1/2 inch diameter discharge pipe leads the water from the pump to the exterior of the house at grade level
An internal breakout is considered a permanent repair and as such, comes backed by our transferrable Written Lifetime Warranty.
A foundation's primary purpose, whether it is block, poured, or stone, is to support the compressive load (that is, the weight) of the building that is sitting on it. Every foundation is susceptible to shifting when it is built on expanding or contracting soil due to freezing or holding water, fill soil that has been improperly compacted, or due to poor maintenance of the dirt around the building's foundation. Whatever the cause of a troublesome foundation, this settlement can ruin a building's value and even render it unsafe.
In these cases, lateral forces surpass the foundation's original resistance to these loads. Over time, these factors can produce lateral bending and the foundation or basement wall becomes bowed. This condition also produces significant cracking. If left unattended, this condition will worsen with time jeopardizing both the structural integrity and resale value of the property. We highly recommend that you take steps to address this problem as soon as possible. Delaying will only increase the amount of damage and increase the cost of repair.
Fortunately, a bowed basement or foundation wall can be straightened, and the pros at DryBasements.com have the expertise to do it. It requires excavation of the foundation; lifting the weight of the structure off of the wall and pushing the wall back to as close to plumb as possible. Even after this is accomplished, the wall requires reinforcement as it has lost its structural integrity.
A concrete wall can still be within tolerance at its current condition without straightening. Historically, I-beams were used to correct a bowed wall by erecting the beams in a fashion that provides lateral concrete reinforcement. While remaining an effective method to this day, installation can be expensive and the end results are obtrusive, nobody wants beams sticking out from the wall. In addition, the basement wall cracks which have undoubtedly occurred as a result of the bowing need to be addressed.
The site is excavated
The wall is returned to plumb
Carbon fiber is applied to leaning or bowed foundation walls, it counteracts further outside pressure on the wall, taking the tension force (or tensile load) that the wall cannot. For every increase in pressure on the wall, the carbon fiber supplies an equal and opposite resistant force making the wall stronger
All drainage issues are corrected
Area is backfilled as required
Unlike traditional fixes that utilize mechanical devices which are screwed into the soil, the success of a project using carbon strapping is not dependent on the type of soil surrounding the structure. We are experts at fixing foundation repair projects other contractors can't seem to solve.
Exterior Excavations are required to install, repair or replace drain tile located at the perimeter footing. It is not uncommon for drain tile to become blocked by dirt and tree roots over time or suffer from a collapsed section preventing proper drainage. In fact, this is one of the most common causes of basement flooding. To learn more about drain tile, see our section on Weeping Tile. In some cases, the tile may have been incorrectly installed or have shifted over time.
Where an existing drain tile does not enter the house into a sump pit, it will either be connected in the country to a field tile or municipal drain. In the city it will be connected to the sanitary or storm sewer. In exceptionally rare cases, it does not lead anywhere. Often it will be recommended that we dig a test hole down to the drain tile in order to attempt to utilize a camera to assess the problem area recommend the appropriate remedy.
In homes built pre-1970, the drain tile was actually hooked up to the sanitary sewer in many cases. This is a hazardous situation which can lead to extensive and costly damages should the sanitary sewer ever backup from the street drain. Some cities, such as London and Stratford, have subsidy programs to help the homeowner remedy this situation. See our Basement Isolation section for more information.
When access to the foundation walls from the inside is limited or just not practical, an Exterior Excavation may be your best choice for waterproofing your basement walls and permanently preventing water from entering your home through the foundation walls. Not all leaks enter through the walls though and while an Exterior Excavation will address water that may enter between the floor/wall/footing joint, it may not address a hydrostatic pressure situation without doing additional work from the inside. Your DryBasements.com Estimator will provide you full details and explain alternative options such as an internal breakout.
An excavation is made to the footing along the problem area
A new drain tile is installed
The Air-Gap membrane is installed from grade level, down to the footing, and over the tile
The top and sides of the membrane are sealed to prevent entry of water and silt
6 to 8 inches of drainage stone is placed over the tile prior to backfilling with native soil
Filter fabric is then installed over the drainage stone to prevent silt from entering your new tile
Excess soil is left above the trench to allow for settling
Weeping tiles are pipes with drainage holes located underground around the basement foundation. Usually they are located on the exterior next to the footing. In homes that have had an Internal Breakout retrofit, the tiles are next to the footing on the inside of the basement. When it rains, water filters into the ground. These pipes capture the water and take it away from the foundation walls to prevent groundwater from entering the basement. Weeping tile systems are sometimes called foundation drains, perimeter drains or simply drain tiles.
Over time, weeping tiles can become clogged with soil, tree roots and other debris. Blocked tiles are a leading cause of wet basements. This water has to go somewhere and will always take the path of least resistance. Often a homeowner will think that the water in the basement is due to a crack in the foundation wall or floor when it is actually the result of a drain blockage.
Most houses built prior to 1970 have a drain system consisting of short sections of clay tiles.
These tiles have a tendency to shift, especially when surrounded by heavy clay or other types of soil with poor drainage. Our annual freeze and thaw cycles will aggravate the problem further.
After a thorough inspection of your home and surrounding lot, your DryBasements.com Estimator will recommend the best course of action based on the age of your house, previous tile problems if applicable, and the location of outside structures and landscaping. In some cases, a test dig outside the home will be recommended in order to ascertain the type and condition of the tile. A video inspection may be required to check the condition and location of the tile runs.
This service should always be considered a temporary remediation. The condition that led to this problem still exists and eventually the weepers will become plugged again.
Scoping, also known as a video inspection, may allow us to see an obstruction, collapsed or damaged areas, the intrusion of roots, or at times to map the location of connections to or from the weeping tiles.
In some homes built prior to 1985, the weeping tile was hooked up to the sanitary drain. This leads to a hazardous situation if the sanitary sewer ever backs up from the street—not to mention the experience of having your basement and possessions destroyed by raw sewage.
Fortunately, many cities, including London and Stratford, have a special subsidy program to help affected homeowners disconnect their drainage system from the municipal drain and to install a backflow valve to prevent sewage from entering the basement. Your DryBasements.com Estimator will give you full details on our Basement Isolation Program.
Window well drains are an important component of any weeping tile drainage system. If these drains become plugged, or if you have an older home without drains, rain water and moisture from the soil can seep into your home through the basement wall or window frame. Left unchecked, this can lead to loss of structural integrity as well as mould and mildew buildup.
Crawl Space Encapsulation is a relatively new technology used to reduce excessive humidity, prevent mould growth, and eliminate unhealthy conditions in crawl spaces. The process completely isolates the crawl space from the ground and outside air by lining the foundation walls and crawlspace floor with an extra-heavy reinforced BrightWrap barrier and installing Humidity Control Ventilation from HumiFresh. The goal is to completely eliminate outside air and ground moisture from entering the building envelope. The crawlspace is no longer neglected, and instead is treated as a part of the home like a basement.
Crawl Space Symptoms of a Crawl Space Problem
Drywall cracks in the interior
Foul odours in the home
Heightened allergies or asthma symptoms
Benefits of the DryBasements.com BrightWrap/HumiFresh CrawlSpace Encapsulation System
Breathe healthier air
Reduces musty odours
Increased comfort throughout the home
Lower energy bills
Heating and cooling equipment lasts longer
Moisture and humidity issues are not eliminated once the crawl space is sealed. In the sealed environment, a small amount of moisture or humidity can cause a significant moisture problem. Fortunately, crawl spaces with HumiFresh Humidity Controlled Ventilation (HCV) have been shown to provide better moisture control. Plus they are more energy efficient.
High ground water issues, if present, are rectified
Perimeter walls are sealed with BrightWrap to prevent infiltration of outside air
Floor is covered with BrightWrap to control soil moisture
All joints are sealed
HumiFresh HCV system installed
Your Free Onsite Crawl Space Assessment includes:
Foundation integrity inspection and recommendation of any necessary remedial actions required prior to the installation of BrightWrap
Inspection of possible ground water issues and recommendation of any necessary remedial actions
Measurement of wall and floor to determine the required amount of BrightWrap
Creation of site plan for HumiFresh CrawlSpace HCV and vent(s) placement
Regardless of how well a home is designed or built, humidity is going to take its toll in a moderate climate like ours. Excess humidity, especially in basement areas, can foster mould growth that can damage your home as well as lead to poor indoor air quality, unpleasant odors and dampness. Low humidity is essential.
In today's energy efficient homes, this humid air along with along with other harmful indoor fumes emitted from paint, household cleaners, etc., will affect your family's health without proper ventilation. These pollutants and the excess humidity must be purged before they become a health hazard and replaced with fresh clean air.
Enter HumiFresh with its exclusive Humidity Controlled Ventilation (HCV) system maintains lower humidity, eliminates pollutants and provides the clean fresh air needed. Plus,
Replaces damp humid air with warm, dry air
Reduces excess humidity and musty odor
Solves summertime humidity and wintertime window condensation
Does not require excessive ductwork - vented just like a dryer
Functions without buckets to empty
Does not require expensive part replacement and comes backed by a 4-year warranty
Operates at a low cost of $2.00/month – uses 38 watts of electricity
The HumiFresh HCV technology automatically adjusts ventilation to keep excess humidity out and create favourable indoor air quality (based on both indoor and outdoor conditions). This helps prevent those humidity prone areas, such as basements, from becoming saturated by seasonal humidity and correct similar existing situations. Indeed, the entire indoor environment becomes drier and more comfortable. As an added benefit, the HCV technology minimizes ventilation impact on cooling or heating costs when outside conditions are not ideal for ventilation (hot/humid or severe cold). With one system you’ll enjoy:
There are HumiFresh models available for homes and apartments. HumiFresh is also part of the DryBasements.com Crawl Space Solution.
The Ontario Building Code requires that every sub-grade window shall have a well with a drain to the homes perimeter footing drainage system or other suitable location. The purpose here is to prevent the accumulation of water inside the well and subsequent leaking through or around the basement window. Window wells are vulnerable to water build-up from heavy rain or snow accumulation as well as spillover from an eavestrough above.
Of course, even the very best drainage will not function if the window well is not properly maintained by keeping it free of garbage and debris. One of the most common window well problems has to do with size. A window well that is not wide enough can allow soil to enter from the sides and between the plug and drain. A window well that is too short will allow water to wash soil under the well and plug the drain. Every year, DryBasements.com inspects hundreds of undersized window wells with plugged or non-existent drains. Your DryBasements.com estimator can help you ensure that a failed window well or drain will never cause you the misfortune of a flooded basement. To accomplish this, a drain needs to be installed inside your window well in order to provide the positive drainage required to carry water away from your foundation wall. Properly installed window wells should be 8 inches below the window sill and 2 inches above the finished grade at minimum.
Window Wells Short Summary
An excavation is performed from the window right down to the weeping tile
The weeping tile is checked to ensure that it is clear (it would not make sense to connect a window well drain pipe to a weeping tile that does not work)
If needed, the weeping tile is scoped and flushed
A 4" drain pipe is installed to approximately 4" below the height of the window sill
The window well is fastened to the wall with anchors
Excavation is backfilled with native soil and compacted
Drainage stone is poured inside the window well to facilitate drainage into the newly installed drain pipe
Are you remodelling, finishing your basement or just wishing to accent your existing home? A custom window well adds beauty, style and safety to your basement window. Custom window wells increase natural light give your basement a warm and inviting feeling.
A sump pump is a pump used to remove water that has accumulated in a sump pit. The sump pit, found in the basement, is simply a hole to collect water. Water enters the pit from the perimeter footing tile.
This drain tile or weeping tile system may have been installed at the time of original construction or part of a retrofit basement waterproofing system. Depending on the type of waterproofing system installed, the tile may have been installed on either the inside or the outside of the basement or foundation wall.
A sump pump and tile system remove water that would otherwise collect at the foundation footing, causing considerable damage inside the home. A stand-alone sump pump system can sometimes be used to collect water from below a basement floor where a high water table and hydrostatic pressure may be an issue. In such cases, water will typically be seen seeping through cracks or fissures in the basement floor.
In some locales, sump pits and pumps are part of the building code. If the basement is below the water table level, hydrostatic pressure will force water through any cracks or fissures in the basement floor and at the junction of the footing and wall. That means a properly installed pit and pump are absolute necessities.
Some older homes have the eavestrough downspouts connected directly to the perimeter tiles. This is incorrect. Downspouts should discharge water directly to a safe area away from the foundation. Disconnecting downspouts is part of DryBasements.com's Basement Isolation Program.
In most municipalities, the sump pump system discharge line is prohibited from being connected to a sanitary sewer but should be discharged over the surface where it will not be a hazard or allow water to flow back toward the foundation. By-laws also prohibit discharging directly onto a neighbouring property. When a storm sewer connection is viable, this is the most desired outlet.
The reality is that eventually all sump pumps fail. During our 25-plus years solving wet basement issues in Southwestern Ontario, we have seen countless flooded basements caused by sump related failures; floods that were not only the result of power outages, but also due to pump or sensor failures, non-existent backup systems or unreliable backup systems with inadequate pumping capacity. We have also seen flooding due to plugged discharge lines or pump intakes and failed check valves. The Insurance Bureau of Canada reports that each year their members handle claims for sump related flooding totalling hundreds of million dollars. And this number continues to increase as more homes have finished basements with media rooms and full scale family rooms.
We know that our customers want us to not only fix their existing water or humidity related problem, but also help them avoid conditions that could lead to future water damage. That's why we only recommend the Basement Guardian BG Proline Back-up Sump Pump installed together with a Barnes 1/3 hp submersible sump pump.
During heavy rain events, more water can enter the sewers under the street than they can handle due to the extra water being added from the weeping tiles. This excess water could potentially come back into the home if the sewer becomes overwhelmed. As a result, municipalities throughout Ontario including London and Stratford have instituted programs and subsidies for homeowners where drain tile is hooked up to municipal drains.
Reduce basement flooding
Reduce sewage treatment costs
Reduce sewage overflow into the natural environment
Provide financial incentives to homeowners who disconnect their weeping tile
If it has not already been done, disconnect all downspouts from the weeping tile. Direct roof water away from the house using downspouts that empty into lateral piping that deposits water on a sloping grade a minimum of 5 ft. away from the foundation.
Disconnect weeping tile from sanitary or storm sewer lateral line to street
Install Backflow Preventer on sanitary line
Seal existing storm sewer lateral line
Install sump pit and pump if not already installed
Route weeping tile drain to sump pit
If you are looking to increase your living space, the first place to look is your basement. It can be more economical than building an addition, because, with the walls, floor and ceiling already there, the "addition" is already partly finished. Plus, since you're building within the existing structure, you don't have to worry about zoning issues such as setback from property lines or height restrictions.
Digging out a low ceiling basement or crawlspace is a major renovation with multiple stages. If done incorrectly, it can lead to foundation damage and eventual collapse of your home. Basement lowering is always based on engineered drawings and city-approved permits. With proper engineering and modern building and waterproofing techniques, it is possible to convert any low ceiling cellar or crawlspace into a low humidity, well-ventilated and comfortable living space.
There are two main methods of basement lowering: (1) underpinning and (2) the use of bench footings. Underpinning maintains the square footage of your basement. Bench footings are cheaper and are used only where underpinning is not possible.
All DryBasements.com Basement Lowering Projects include "Best in Class" water damage prevention and humidity ventilation products to ensure your new space has maximum livability for years to come. These products include:
Our Lifetime Transferable Waterproofing Warranty, Basement Guardian ProLine Backup and Barnes 1/3 hp submersible sump pump.
FLOODSTOP leak detectors and automatic shutoff valves installed on your water heaters and washing machine.
A HumiFresh HCV system to eliminate moist air and pollutants throughout your home.
Basement Lowering and crawlspace conversions are both major projects. If you are considering this type of work, we will be pleased to help start the process with a free onsite consultation.